A medley of mysterious Midsummer magic

RIGA - That time of year is upon us again here in the Baltics, the gateway to summer and the biggest holiday of the year, Midsummer (Jani, Jonines, Jaanipaev). While widely seen as an excuse to party, drink copious amounts of beer, sing songs and wear flowery and leafy crowns, the ancient Midsummer roots go much deeper, and traditions that were almost forgotten are making a surprising comeback in both the Baltics and abroad.
For this issue, we take a look at the newly revived traditions, which ancient practices have all but disappeared, as well as how festivities differ from region to region, and, most importantly, where is the best place to go to celebrate this magical time of year.

One of the more interesting things to note, with regards to traditions, is their surprising revival in recent years in the Baltic States, as well as abroad.
“It is the case that all traditional holidays are celebrated more and more, and also deeper with more seriousness,” affirmed Gunta Saule, an active member of the Latvian Dievturi religion.

“Jani is the most popular holiday, which is celebrated by almost everyone. Of course, for many, it is merely a holiday to relax with beer and cheese by a fire. But, for a growing number, to also recognize this time as the Summer Solstice, as a celebration of fertility,” explained Saule.

Many rituals and traditions coming back into the forefront of celebrators may have been unnoticed for quite some time, revealed by folklorists and analyzed and explained by the Dievturi. In short, the rituals and traditions for this one night could easily fill volumes, but a few prominent ones can be listed here.
“People help the sun complete its cycle, building a fire, and contribute last year’s wreaths, bread, honey and other natural items to the fire in the hopes of a prosperous year,” explained Saule.
The fire itself, the most important symbol, that of the sun, can be found in many different forms. On a post, on the water, or simply on the ground.

“People often light fires on rafts and set them afloat in the sea or a lake, depending on the area and the traditions,” said Saule.
Traditionally, people also go down to the river or lake on this magical night. “We believe that during this time, the waters are particularly sacred and powerful, for health and fertility, and swimming is necessary,” explained Saule.
“There are more traditional Midsummer songs and dances as well as games which are very important, because within them are the symbols and secrets of the Midsummer magic, as well as the charm.”

Many readers will already be familiar with the concept of “searching for the fern flower,” supposedly only blooming once a year during Midsummer at midnight. Also an excuse to pair off and go into the woods for a little one-on-one midnight magic. However, as Gunta Saule explains, pairing off isn’t necessarily the only way to enjoy the midnight hour.
“It is important to have a moment to be alone that night; some call it the search for the fern flower. It is the symbol of love, as well as representative of one’s own inner knowledge acquisition,” said Saule. 
This time of year is also the right time to collect herbs and teas for the winter to help strengthen immunity and to help those suffering to recover from illnesses.

While most of the focus tends to be on the nighttime activities, the morning is also just as important. According to the Dievturi, at sunrise, it is important to wash one’s face with the morning dew so as to be healthy.
 
Regional variations:

What other things have changed recently? “In my opinion, there are more public Jani activities and events, where strangers can celebrate together. Also outside the cities,” said Janis Koknesis, himself an aficionado of his namesake holiday.
For the most part, though, as it has always been in all three Baltic States, most prefer to spend time out of the cities, together with nature, good friends, good atmosphere and, of course, good food.

The countryside of Latvia’s south-eastern region of Latgale is well known for its raucous three-day weddings, lively music and dynamic people, and when it comes to Jani, this region is where it’s at for a hearty celebration.
“There are definitely differences,” explains Kristine Motivane, a university teacher of the Latvian language. “First of all, traditions have been preserved better here, much more singing. Also, the tradition of going to the neighbors for a visit with food and song on this night is more common in Latgale,” Motivane continued.

As a matter of fact, in this region not only is the celebration for humans, but for animals as well. A true sign of a celebration of fertility. “In Latgale, the tradition of wreath-making is not only for family members, but also for all horned animals. I remember, every year I had to make 6 wreaths for our cows and place them on their heads. This is normal throughout Latvia, but especially in Latgale,” Motivane explained.

In addition to these festivities, the southern region also celebrates with the sauna, to cleanse themselves, similar to other country areas of Latvia. As is the case in most countries, traditions are most preserved in the countryside.
“Kurzeme has the Suitu Sievas, and their unique singing sound; Latgale has Latgalian folk songs, which are quite a bit naughtier than in other regions. Also, as I recall, Latgale has the sweetest beer, always with a lot of honey, which helps the fermentation process and goes to your head faster when drunk,” said Motivane.

The Dievturi perspective:

The most magical celebrations in the region may well reside within the Dievturi community, for whom these Midsummer days are not just a celebration, but holy days. Esteemed member of the Dievturi community, Maruta Voitkus- Lukina, tells us the meaning behind the holiday.

Janis is a deity, holy. In Dievturiba, as expressed in the ancient Dainas, is our Latvian natural religion. It is not nature “worship,” it is spiritual eyes seeing that everything is current divine legitimacy linked and expressed.
Once upon a time, many years before Egypt’s zenith, mankind had observed that the constellation Orion (in Latvian ‘Janis,’ Sanskrit ‘Jan,’ later for the Romans ‘Janus’) as ‘lifting’ in the sky and at the same time, the place of sunrise in the sky coming the furthest north-east edge of the sky. It is described poetically as the Latvian Janis’ hat as being the highest, even higher across the whole of the world. Then there is the summer solstice, the time when the earth is closest to the sun. It is a sacred moment.

From this concept, ‘Janis-Orion-etc.’ are derived for the large number of protectors’ images, one of which is much later Jesus Christ in Christianity.

Janis ‘comes’ to the people. We are celebrating the phenomenon with sacred cheese, which is shaped like the sun.
However, people in their frenzy began celebrating with Midsummer bonfires (3 days after the summer solstice, as the Christians had proclaimed the 24th of June, St. John’s day) grilling kebabs, burning car tires, more or less passively listen to the songs and very actively getting drunk and driving under the influence.

Little by little, the nation is returning to the original summer solstice (around the 21st of June) with cheese and beer and Latvian folk foods (piragi, salads, rye bread, butter and honey) as a more appropriate Jani meal. The weaving of the crowns, fires burning all night and washing with dew in the morning, these are things which we are seeing more of.

Currently, we are in a transitional period. The return to the ancient sanctity is gradual. It will continue. In all areas of Latvia, the Latvian people, who remember or know about the ancient Midsummer and their values ​​(currently still hidden or forgotten), each endeavor to show them again in their region. In Ventspils there was an endeavoring woman who invited like-minded people into her country home and started to renew the ancient Jani in Latvia after independence. 

The celebration includes many other things. Jani begins with warmer weather. Then there is the time of preparation, cleaning, polishing, cheese making, brewing beer, herb collecting, etc. Then simply walking from home to home, with a greeting song, for all things, the fields, pastures, barns, meals, the culmination of sacred developments – singing.
The fern flower. The fern flower is not for weaving. The search for the fern flower is a mystical, sacred process in which a person is looking inside himself and in others, communicating in the language of souls. Midsummer night, being a fertility celebration (all of our solstice celebrations are for fertility) apotheosis, allowing two human souls to confirm understanding in a carnal, and ecstatic way.

Where to celebrate:

The Riga event “Ligosim krastmala!” which begins on June 23 on  11. Novembra krastmala along the river in Old Town, will involve more than 45 musicians, actors, DJ’s and folklore groups. Revelers on the river bank will have the opportunity to try delicious food from all regions of Latvia as well as several types of beer. The celebration will go all night and into the morning, beginning at 17:00.

While events are planned for Vilnius, the real party is about 20 km outside the city in Kernave, full of authenticity and beautiful nature. To celebrate a traditional Lithuanian Jonines, in Vilnius on June 23, orient yourself between the ‘Zaliasis tiltas’ (the Green Bridge) and the ‘Baltasis tiltas’ (the White Bridge), Sereikiskiu Park, Verkiai Park. Herb markets will abound as well as the making of wreaths to later float down the river.

If you’re feeling traditional in Tallinn, a good Midsummer event is held at the open air museum from about 19:00 till midnight on June 23. However, if you’re leaning more towards a party, “Puhajarve Jaanituli” is for you. Complete with several stages with Estonian dance music and midsummer fun and games, folk music, mountain biking, water rides and more. Tickets available online. Puhajarvel, one of the most beautiful lakes in Estonia, is the setting for this family-friendly event.