KOKNESE - After seeing the same gray and dreary cityscape day in and day out, one yearns for something more eye-pleasing and adventurous. Koknese, located on the banks of the Daugava, might be a small town, but it has an extraordinary history and even more impressive sights.
Settled in the 12th century by Latgalians and Selonians, the town soon came under siege by Germans and the Livonian Order, which is how the famed castle was built. In 1209, Albert of Buxhoeveden, in partnership with the Livonian Order, commanded a stone castle be built to replace the wooden Latvian fortifications along the banks of the Daugava, where the swirling waters meet the calmer Perse River.
After several more bumps in the road, the town became a member of the Hanseatic League along with Riga.
The area's various wars, including the Great Northern War, in which the castle was taken over by Saxons, has left the castle in ruins. These ruins, however, are still fully accessible and are now the sites of weddings, afternoon picnics and romantic rendezvous.
The castle isn't hard to find, choose either a wooded path or just follow the Daugava until it meets the Perses River, the sound of colliding waters is hard to miss.
After viewing the awe inspiring castle from a distance, one can freely explore the remains 's but watch for falling rocks as preservation is practically nonexistent.
Though the castle is the town's most famous site, following the paths to an old Teutonic graveyard is highly suggested. Unmarked and somewhat sunken, the graveyard sneaks up on you, identifiable only by the tell tale crosses. Following another path back along the river will take you to a delightful little white Lutheran church that welcomes visitors on Sundays. The minister, having been to Canada, speaks some English and is delighted with newcomers.
The only eyesore in this picture perfect town is the remains of a collective farm and the huge green house that has been vandalized and abandoned. The rest of the town is cute little houses with picket fences and gardens, perfect for a stroll on a sunny day.
To get to this mystical village, just hop on the train going towards Daugavpils and get off at the Koknese stop. Getting a map isn't necessary due to the size of the town.
With the exception of the main street and two side streets, the vast majority of the town is a series of winding wooded paths that lead to either the river, castle ruins or an ancient cemetery.
If you're feeling a bit peckish after the brisk walk through town, stop by what is seemingly the town's only restaurant, Ragalu krogs, by the train station for a steaming helping of fresh potatoes.
Why Koknese isn't more prominently featured or toured is anyone's guess, but a short 100km drive or train ride will take you directly to this Latgalian heartland and makes a perfect day trip. And for 50 lats, it makes a gorgeous place to have an authentic middle ages wedding ceremony.
For more information visit
www.koknese.lv 
