A taste of the Baltics

  • 2009-06-10
  • By Monika Hanley

Though most of the world considers the three small Baltic countries to be basically the same place, differences in traditional cuisine are a sure way to tell them apart. Although much of all three nations' cuisine centers on meat (usually pork) and potatoes, it's important to note that potatoes haven't really been in the region that long (since the 1700s) and actual pork meat was earlier considered a delicacy.

Going back in time we can get to the root of the original traditional cuisines.
Estonian cuisine centered mainly on seasonal meat and vegetables. In winter a lot of verevorst (blood sausage) is eaten, along with pancakes and smoked fish 's especially suitsukala (trout). Summer opens up the culinary doors to fresh salads and barbecued meats.
For a taste of true Estonian cuisine, visit the restaurant in the Estonian Ethnographic Museum, famous for its pea soup and intensely rustic design. Venues closer to the Old Town are Kuldse Notsu Korts (The Golden Piglet Inn), named for its emphasis on pork dishes, and Eesti Maja, the Estonian House.

Latvian cuisine is also seasonal, and with summer around the corner get ready to be bombarded with the classic summer favorite of tomato and cucumber salad with sour cream. It's really all that's eaten in the summer, along with grilled meats.

In winter the options tend to the pickled, preserved and dried (pumpkin, jams, and fish). The summer starts off with the Midsummer, or Jani, and involves the making and eating of Janu siers (a special cheese with cumin and caraway seeds). Latvian's also love their herring in any way imaginable 's whether with beets, sour cream and horseradish (herring in a jacket) or freshly smoked in a fire. 
The place to go for a taste of Latvian cuisine is without a doubt, the chain restaurant Lido, which has locations all over Riga. The first and largest Lido is located a bit outside of the Riga center within the largest log house in Europe. Complete with an ice rink, windmill and amusement park, not to mention more Latvian food than you can shake a stick at, the big Lido has something for everyone.
The cuisine of Lithuania does things with potatoes that most people wouldn't think of given a lifetime. Though potatoes weren't around back in the day, the famous ceppelini (zeppelins) are a now mainstay of Lithuanian cuisine. A long preparation process makes these grated, boiled and filled potatoes absolutely delicious when topped with sour cream and bacon. Lithuanian cuisine tends to use hemp seed for sauces and most things are covered in a rich, creamy sauce.

Cili Kaimas is a good place to try a wide variety of Lithuanian cuisine including the "Naked maids in sweet flags" dish, with chicken in chanterelle sauce.  
Some items of food that are in all three Baltic kitchens are the staple black bread, mushrooms and soups (beet and sauerkraut), which can be found everywhere.
Those with extreme tastes can treat their adventurous taste buds to some of the jellied meats or meats in aspic (surprisingly not as bad as it sounds), or some steamed pig's snouts or pig's ears, apparently good with beer.

Pelmeni (small filled dumplings) and the ever popular shashlik (pork or chicken kebabs) are so present everywhere that many visitors begin to associate the foods with the Baltics. In reality, pelmeni are a Russian contribution to cuisine and the shashlik is from Armenia.

At first glance, much of the Baltic's cuisine can seem quite starchy, fatty and no good for dieters. This however is a sad misconception. Most of the ingredients are so fresh, unaltered, and preservative free, that even eating a plate of ribs with potatoes in a heavy cream sauce can leave you lighter at the end of your vacation. So dig in without worries and enjoy the ancient taste of the Baltics.