Sun, sand and spas at Jurmala

  • 2008-08-06
  • Monika Hanley

JUST BEACHY: No matter how many people flock to the shores of Jurmala, there's always room for sunbathers on this 33km long stretch of sand.

RIGA - After six months of living in Latvia, I finally made it to the shores of Jurmala 's and once I got there, I never wanted to leave. Hot sun, sand and beach-volleyball tournaments aren't usually the images first associated with Latvia, but the country continues to surprise.

The word jurmala means "beach," and the name is completely appropriate 's the entire town seems to lead to the 33-kilometer white sand beach. The water is usually just right to beat the summer heat, but unless you're half a meter tall, you might have to stroll quite a ways into the water to get to suitable swimming depths. 
The talcum-powder-fine sand and comforting sun's rays had me wondering why anyone ever went elsewhere for a vacation when such a paradise was right in their own backyard.

Chances are you've already been to Jurmala, but things are always changing here. It has come a long way since serving as a vacation spot during the Napoleonic War and a resort and spa for Soviet officers, and it still boasts a long list of celebrities among its residents.
In addition to the regular exhibitions, this month Jurmala hosts the Latvian volleyball championships, the Summer Time international music festival and the fifth International Art Forum's "Art Brings People Together" event.

Jurmala is easier to get to than ever before. The newest route goes by shuttle bus directly from the airport to the sunny shores, but the most common method is by Latvia's most frequent train. Fares from Riga run steady at about .60 lats (0.85 euros) each way, which leaves you plenty of money to splurge on the handmade crafts and natural goods from the stalls lining the main drag. I would recommend hopping off the train after about 25 minutes at the main beach, Majori, although it's possible to hop off the train at any one of stops to enjoy a different flavor.

Majori has by far the most cafes and boutiques, while Dzintari, Dubulti and Bulduri are more for the sporty types, with bikes and kites available for rent. But locals and tourists flock to Jurmala not just for the beach, but for the spas, which block the view of the beach from much of the town.

The architecture of the region is also worth a look. Most of the buildings were built in 1910 and later by Germans and Scandinavians, leaving the area dotted with glorious wood buildings. Many are abandoned and it's not uncommon to find a beautifully maintained house next to a ramshackle, derelict abode.
If you don't have time to make it during the summer peak season, the beach in winter still holds on as a peaceful beautiful place to visit. During the winter season, amidst the snowfall, you can often see swans floating by, bobbing up and down on the waves. No matter what the season, Jurmala will always be there as a relaxing spot to take a walk, do some shopping or just breathe in the fresh sea air.

For more information and event calendars, visitwww.jurmala.lv