KUUTSMAE - Let's face it. It's been an awful, miserable 's and most importantly 's snowless winter. In a secret location in Estonia, however, (now not so secret because you're reading about it) they don't have to deal with lack of snow. At Kuutsmae (Kuutse Hill), the winter lasts a little longer thanks to high tech snow machines. Once a haven for the natives, it is now a popular resort and party town.
It's not big mountain skiing, of course, but what the Hill lacks in height, it makes up for in atmosphere. Skiing enthusiasts should move quickly, however, as once temperatures stop dipping below freezing at night the snow machines can't work their magic.
The cleverly designed jumps have made this small town an Estonian skier's dream. Don't be discouraged if you can't ski or snowboard, however, the resort is a good place to get started. Ski-enthusiasts like Kristina Pauksens recommend it for beginners because of the gentle inclines and low-key environment. She goes there for the ambience.
"The night skiing has such a magical feel to it with the soft glow on the snow," she said.
Kuutse Hill really is a magical place. It's set in the sort of mythical forest where one can imagine elves and fairies frolicking amongst the trees.
For winter sports enthusiasts, the resort has seven tracks of varying difficulty, from 214-514 meters in length. The various ski jumps also give one a chance to catch some serious air or just to try out a small jump for the first time in a relaxed and unhurried atmosphere. The sharpest incline on Porikraavi is around 15 degrees and the beginner slope, Teppani is 13 degrees.
It's easy to be put off by the scary Soviet style washroom in the parking lot, but it's possible to hop on the first tow rope and get off half way to go and use the one in the ski lodge.
It's best to head out in the morning, when the snow is fresh and the party crowd from the night before has yet to get up. Buy an all-access pass on arrival to avoid the queues, which turn out to be pretty short anyway.
The best approach is probably to ski all morning and take a break in the afternoon to head over to the nearby cozy cafe and tavern to enjoy a big bowl of the local favorite, Kuutsemae thick soup. Of course, no meal would be complete without a hot (and slightly alcoholic) beverage to warm you up.
From there, one can either return to the slopes and ski well into the night, or take in some of the magical nearby sights like the Otepaa Castle, or the Armuallikas spring.
It's a real treat to come back in the evenings, especially on the weekends. It's a genuine mountain party environment in a rustic but homey (and very Estonian) tavern.
On Saturday nights, there is live music at the all night Kuutse Tonni tavern. The tavern has a variety of ethnic and hearty foods to sample (well-priced at around 5-10 euro), for the eclectic few who make their way to this snowy hideout.
www.kuutsemae.ee
