Visit the nuns of Pazaislis

Jan 07, 2009
By Justinas Vainilavicius

VILNIUS - Just outside Kaunas a baroque masterpiece eagerly awaits the recognition it rightfully deserves. Pazaislis Monastery, located on the shores of Kaunas Reservoir, is considered to be one of the best examples of Italian baroque in the country.
Local press, however, constantly use the site to highlight the government's shortcomings. While engaged in rebuilding the royal palace almost out of nothing, pundits say, it does not pay enough attention to the authentic relics of the past.
That is why I decided to finally revisit the monastery once again after years of driving by 'swhen it is only a tiny silhouette in the horizon, as seen from the Vilnius-Kaunas highway. It is easy to reach either on your own or public transport.

When I walked in the monastery I was struck by the breathtaking architecture and the atmosphere of greatness lying in the walls. The most distinct part of the complex is a church, which makes the monastery what it is. The exterior here is not an over-decorated and pretentious one. On the contrary, buildings are grand by their symmetry and geometrical forms. The interior is much more elaborate. 
One of the nuns showed me around inside. She talked about the0 long and dramatic history of the complex, which has stood since the 17th century. Great Chancellor Krzysztof Zygmunt Pac founded the monastery and is buried there alongside his family. Originally the building served the Camaldolese Order, now it is home for the sisters' convent of St. Casimir.

All the powers that ever swept through the country used Pazaislis for their own needs, vandalizing the place in various ways. Napoleon and the Imperial German armies pillaged it, while the Soviets established a hospital for the mentally disabled.
One of the most exciting parts of the monastery for me was the frescos 's many of which are more than three hundred years old 's especially the one depicting St. Brunon being killed by the pagans. This scene is taken from the Annals of Quedlinburg, where in 1009 the name of Lithuania was mentioned for the first time in written history. This year marks a millennium for Lithuania.

Pazaislis is also famous for the international classical music festival. Because of this, summer is the time when the monastery is visited the most.
However, the place is stunning all year round. The natural surroundings only add seasonal charm, whether it be the red leaves of the trees in autumn or the frozen Kaunas Reservoir in the winter.

This artificial lake was created in Soviet times when a hydroelectric power plant was built and the Nemunas River was dammed. Pazaislis monastery was standing on a hill before that and now it is located on a peninsula. The old cemetery of the monks and the remains of the older church were buried under water.
Alongside its original purpose of supporting the power plant, the main purpose of the lake is recreational. Now, when winter is in a full swing, it is especially popular among ice-fishers and ice skaters.
The monastery also hosts baroque-themed banquets or dinners in its halls. It also offers a course of Recollections, which allows individuals to stay in Pazaislis for a weekend or a week and meditate alone.

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