Two outstanding restaurants withstand the test of time

  • 2008-09-25
  • By Jana Belugina

BUON APPETITO: This two-year old restaurant keeps customers coming back for seconds and thirds.

TALLINN - Good restaurants don't open every day, and it's always hard to judge a place that's just had its grand opening. So let's visit two absolutely fabulous restaurants which have been around for two years and are still not showing signs of stagnating: Gianni and Vertigo.

Gianni is a top quality Italian restaurant that you won't regret visiting 's so far, it's been flawless.
Located near the harbor on the ground floor of a modern dark glass building, Gianni's offers  no great view, but you probably wouldn't have noticed 's the interior is so comfortable that late-night diners often must  be reminded to leave after the place has closed. Glass walls covered with soft curtains, coffee and toffee colors, tall candles 's and the service is flawless. Waiters are just the way they should be: invisible yet always at your service, lightning-fast and accurate.

Anything you order is going be something you'll want to re-order next time. The portions are big, which is a pleasant surprise for a place at its level, and anything can be adapted to the desires of the client 's from the tomato soup to the thin, crispy pizza, which are both simply delicious and taste like a little piece of Italy.
Try the foie gras salad 's absolutely marvelous 's and for the main course, choose from a range of pasta and meat or get one of the best fish dishes in town. Gianni also stocks a great selection of wines and the famous Limoncello to accompany fresh berries at dessert. Once you've been here, you'll want to come back for either the fabulous dinner or just lunch at trendy cafe Fashion, which shares the kitchen and is just across the hall.

Next we'll visit posh Vertigo, with Imre Kose, probably the most famous chef in Estonia. This place has top-class service and unforgettable international cuisine, not to mention a breathtaking view. Recalling previous works of art from Kose, expectations were high 's and Vertigo met all of them. The fantastic location is on the ninth floor in the new modern building, neighboring Emporio Armani, the largest flagship store in the Baltics. The restaurant and brasserie look out on opposite sides of the building and the fabulous terrace provides views of the Old Town and the sea. Interior decor is minimalist except for the huge fireplace, which makes it extremely cozy.

As to the food, it is fantastic again, just like anything Kose does. Seasonality and freshness are the credos of this restaurant, with a slight allusion to fusion well-concealed in long-standing traditions of fine dining. The wine list is outstanding as well, and Vertigo also offers a Sunday brunch, a rare and pleasant surprise.