Row, row, row your boat

  • 2008-07-23
  • By Adam Mullett

MESSING ABOUT ON THE WATER: The trick is to develop a rythmn.

VILNIUS - The movie "You Am I" made the Aukstaitija National Park fa-mous in the Cannes Film Festival in 2006 and showed off just how beautiful it is in summer and spring. I went there on a boating trip with some friends at the beginning of July and loved it. Four to a boat, we set off from the town of Paluse on a 30-kilometer rowing adventure through the lake and river system.

This region, of course, has also become famous for another reason: the nuclear power plant at Ignalina, only 10 kilometers away. But we didn't see any three-eyed fish or glowing wildlife 's the water was crystal clear with lots of fish and was a lovely temperature for swimming.
The boat adventure started at about 9 a.m. after we paid our fees. The boats we hired cost 35 litas (10.15 euros) per day, and each fit four people 's that is, two rowing hard and two others watching them. We started off on the lake that laps Paluse's shores. There was a forecast for rain that day, but we weren't put off and started rowing along.

After a relaxing two-hour haul on the oars we reached our first portage. It would be the first of three times that we had to lift the boat out of the water. As this was the largest crossing, the owners of the boat came to ferry our boats across the land. When we got to the other side I realized something: a patch of light mud next to water is not necessarily sand. Cows come to drink the water and get stuck in the mud and stand there for a while. I stepped into the "mud" while reeling backwards to avoid falling in the water. I guess it would have been nicer to fall in the water after all.
There are numerous places that you can go in the lake system. It is nice to row blindly through the reeds and come upon a deserted island. You aren't allowed to camp anywhere you like, but you can stop and have some lunch or just rest for a while.

My favorite part of the whole journey was going in between the lakes through the little rivers. Here you need to get out and push the boat at some places where the water is too shallow. These river sections also require the most skill in rowing and test your ability to work as a team. The rocky bottoms require sandals to ensure you don't cut your feet on a mussel shell or a sharp stick. During the whole journey I only noticed two beer cans in the water. Other than that, it was pristine.

The second portage is across a road at a dam that was built for an old water-powered flour mill. There is a shop and two restaurants there where you can eat and refuel on beer. The Lithuanians I rowed with consumed an alarming amount of alcohol 's one boat carried over 30 liters of beer. The more shallow rivers we went through, the more they decided to lighten the load.
After lifting the boat over the road and into the third leg of the journey, we rowed for another two hours and then reached the campground. It was probably the most remote campground in the lake system, and there weren't many people there. The campsite was kept in good order, with fire safety precautions observed and no rubbish on the ground. Prices for camping vary depending on how big your tent is and how many people are sleeping, but the prices are very reasonable and come to less than 10 litas (2.89 euros) for the night per person.

It was surprising to me how much wood was available for campfires so close to the campsite so late in the season, but we didn't complain after our 12-hour haul. The fire was hot and good for cooking. We supplemented our food with beer and chat. Then we hit the sack.
The next day was a leisurely row back to Paluse to drop off the boats. Everybody was a little bit sore but thoroughly happy with the trip. I would recommend it for couples, for team-building for companies, or for any large group. Canoes, kayaks and bigger boats are all available. Reservations are essential.

Boat Hire Company:
Paluses Valtine
www.valtine.lt
+37068690030