A weekend getaway for those not intimidated by driving

  • 2007-05-23
  • By Holly Morrison

PRESERVING THE PAST: The Rundale Palace houses an art museum that also displays relics once belonging to the Duke of Courland's family.

RIGA - Life in Riga is exciting and offers a wide range of possibilities to fill any free time we may find. There is seldom a weekend that choosing a form of entertainment isn't a multiple-choice exercise: museums, operas, movies, concerts and art shows. But as stimulating and entertaining as the city is, there are times that many of us feel the need to get away from it all, and in these times we find ourselves drawn to the quiet, slower pace of the smaller cities, villages and farmlands.

There is little to compare when evaluating the city life of Riga and the lifestyle of the countryside. Whether your goal is discovering castles and mansions or simply walking through a hayfield searching the horizon for storks' nests, the Latvian countryside will not disappoint you.
For those wishing to explore a new destination: try Edole 's a little known village situated in Latvia's Kurzeme region 's with stop offs in Sabile, Pedvale and Kuldiga. Or if you're not intimidated by some extra driving, begin your getaway by going south to Rundale Palace and spend your first night at the Balta Maja (White House) on the castle grounds. Wander through Rundale's gardens in the moonlight and explore the palace on Saturday morning.

Next, head north to Pedvale. This small artist's colony is about 120 kilometers directly west of Riga and is home to a sculpture garden and the privately owned museum of Ojars Feldbergs. Footpaths through the forest surrounding the sculpture garden can be easily hiked for those wishing to stretch their legs at this point of their journey. Artistic contributions from all over the world greet hikers as they travel through the forest. Hungry travelers should note that Pedvale also has a reasonably priced restaurant.
Sabile is more or less an extension of Pedvale 's or Pedvale of Sabile, depending on whom you ask. Both communities lie in the ancient Abava River valley. Sabile was first mentioned in 1253 and is noteworthy today for Vina Kalns, the most northern open-air vineyard in the world, according to "The Guinness Book of Records." Sabile is a small town situated on rather impressive hills (by Latvian standards). It is interesting to walk through, a tour that can be accomplished in less than an hour.
Kuldiga is approximately 30 kilometers west of the Sabile/Pedvale area. The city, with a current population of 13,500, was first mentioned in historic records in 1242. This charming city is situated on the banks of the Venta River and is home to Ventas Rumba, one of the widest waterfalls in Europe. Kuldiga is considered to be one of the oldest and best-preserved cities in Latvia and boasts of one of Europe's oldest bridges: a brick bridge built between 1873 and 1874 that offers great views of the river and surroundings.

Twenty kilometers northwest of Kuldiga is the village of Edole, home of a 13th-Century castle. Edole is situated within the rolling farmlands of Kurzeme. The surrounding countryside is an ever-changing, always relaxing backdrop for your getaway experience. Storks wander newly plowed fields in the springtime, looking for food as they prepare for their new families to hatch. Golden haystacks lean against blue skies in the autumn, awaiting the cold winds of winter while horses and cattle roam the rolling hills.
But summer in this region is probably the most magnificent season of all. The lush green forests furnish cool breezes in the evening and the smell of fresh soil, lilac and pine saturate the warm summer days. Thatched-roof farms and cottages dot the landscape, some of which offer accommodations to travelers. I highly recommend a farm-stay in this beautiful region.
After this bucolic adventure a return to the city may be slightly shocking, but I find the bright lights and exhilaration of the city wonderful after a few incredibly dark nights of star-filled skies followed by roosters waking me in the morning.
The getaway described above is appropriate for those of us who consider the road trip as part of the fun. If you prefer less driving, this trip can be revised. But the roads in this part of Latvia are fairly traffic free and have some of Latvia's best landscapes.

For information on farm stays, activities and cool places to see in Latvia go to http://www.celotajs.lv/index.do