Survival of the tastiest

  • 2007-02-07
  • By Holly Morrison
RIGA - Long cold winters and short growing seasons, combined with relatively poor soil in Latvia, meant that people had to work really hard for their food. In spite of these hardships the ancient Latvian diet was fairly balanced, consisting of an abundance of meat, fish and dairy along with fruits (such as berries collected from the forest) and vegetables.

But for Latvian peasants, perhaps the most revered food was bread. It has been said that people's respect for bread was akin to a religious experience. Even today, Latvian children are taught this respect for bread.

Because there was no natural source of salt in Latvia (it was obtained through barter or purchase from other countries) salt was used sparingly. Food was seasoned using local products such as caraway seeds, onions and garlic, all of which continue to be mainstays in traditional Latvian cuisine. The primary source of sweetener, in early times, was honey. Even today, small colorful boxes 's sheltering beehives 's dot the Latvian countryside, attesting to the fact that this tradition of honey consumption lives on.

Possibly one of the biggest boons to Latvian cuisine, and society in general, was the introduction of the potato in the 19th century. This easily grown vegetable flourished in Latvia and became known as "a second bread." Thanks to the potato Latvian peasants no longer went hungry when their stores of grain were depleted in the late winter and spring. Whether living along the coastal regions where fish was abundant, or living inland on a farm where meat was more plentiful, the potato 's
baked, boiled or fried 's became a regular at every table. Today, it is impossible to eat a traditional Latvian meal without one or more dishes built around the potato.

The presence of traditional Latvian food in modern Latvia confirms not only its own delectability, but also reminds us of the survival of Latvian culture which, although forever changing, still proudly maintains its heritage. One might question whether a steady diet of traditional Latvian food is healthy, since it generally relies heavily on dairy and fatty meats 's foods that we've become phobic of in recent years. It's probably safe to say that unless you plan to enjoy your traditional Latvian cuisine in conjunction with endless days of hard manual labor, either in the fields or working for the occupiers de jour, you may want to alter some of the higher fat ingredients, or at least watch your portion sizes. With that said, however, you could certainly do worse than eating good, non-genetically-modified, fresh foods prepared using recipes that have been around for centuries.

- If you want to try a traditional Latvian meal prepared with only ecological ingredients try, Ecovirtuve (Eco Kitchen) at: 11 Rupniecibas St. or go to their Web site: www.ekovirtuve.lv. You can also purchase ingredients at the Ecovirtuve shop and prepare your own traditional dishes at home.

- If you're in the mood for experiencing traditional Latvian food with a side order of good old-fashioned ambiance, try the Lido chain. Their buffet style restaurants are scattered all over the city, but two addresses are: A. Caka street 55 or Tirgonu street 6. Visit their Web site for more information: www.lido.lv.

- Also try Vecmeita ar Kaki (the Spinster and the Cat) at Maza pils 1.

Janis cheese

4 - 5 lbs. dry cottage cheese or ricotta
10 quarts milk
1 tsp. yellow food coloring (optional)
2 - 3 tbsp. oil
Cheesecloth
5 - 6 oz. butter
6 eggs
1 tbsp. caraway seeds
1 tbsp. salt
1 - 2 tsp. lemon juice (if necessary)

Directions:

1. Drain off any liquid in the cottage cheese. Put it through a food processor or blender to make sure it is finely ground. Use a large Dutch oven or stockpot. Put oil in pot, add milk. Heat to boiling. Then add cottage cheese and keep stirring.
2. If milk mixture doesn't curdle within about 5 minutes, add the lemon juice. When curdled, strain off all liquid. Place cheese mass in cheesecloth (gauze) and wring out any remaining moisture.
3. Melt the butter in the pot, put in the cheese mass and heat until hot. Meanwhile beat eggs together with salt and caraway seeds. Gradually add beaten egg mixture to heated cheese mass.
4. Mix well and keep on stirring until it all balls up and becomes a bit stretchy. Remove from heat and pack into a number of small round-bottomed bowls. (Alternately, shape into small cheese wheels, and wrap in cheesecloth.) Cover, and keep cool.